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How to apply waterslide decals

6/18/2012

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Here's how to apply these:

  • Cut apart the individual images from the sheet.
  • Dip the decal into lukewarm water for 1 or 2 minutes. Take the decal from the water and see if the image will move or slide on the paper backing. If not, return to the water for a few more seconds.
  • Once the decal will slide on the backing, put the decal and backing on a paper towel for a few seconds to remove the excess water.
  • Then bring the decal up to where on the model you want to apply it and slide the image from the paper backing onto the model. While wet, you can still move the image on the model a bit to position it just where you want it. If there are any air bubbles under the decal, gently push the bubble toward one of the edges of the decal with a wet Q-tip or edge of a paper towel to remove it.
  • When the decal is in position, simply let it air dry and it will stay in place.
Many hobby shops will sell various decal setting solutions that will help the decal conform to sharply curved surfaces. Solvaset from Walthers, Micro-Sol and MicroSet from Microscale Industries are examples of decal setting solutions. We suggest trying out the specific solution you wish to use on an unused decal from the same sheet applied to a piece of scrap plastic to make sure the solution will not react with the decal. If you wish to spray a clear coat over your decals, the clear paint you intend on using should be tested first using the same method. Some people use Delta Ceramcoat's clear varnish. Another method of sealing the decals is to dip them in Pledge with Future Shine.

Unused waterslide decals may deteriorate over time due to storage conditions such as heat, moisture or exposure to light. If you have an older kit, you may wish to test one of the decals on the sheet in water to see what kind of condition they're in. Use one of the markings you were not planning on applying to the model or use the small kit number or copyright info markings usually found on the edge of the sheet. If they break up when placed in water, they're getting pretty old. One way around this is to brush on a clear decal film. This is a liquid product made by several companies including Badger, Microscale and others and found in many hobby retailers and online.

One last trick: exposing an older decal sheet that's starting to turn yellow to bright sunlight for an hour or so will usually clear that yellowing right up.


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Slot Car Pit Boxes

3/13/2012

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For those of you that travel with your cars and tools from track to track, event to event, friend to friend, lugging your stuff all over in an organized fashion is important. Many have found fishing tackle boxes to be ideal for HO scale. There are some custom made wooden boxes, as well, for HO, 1/32 and 1/24 scale folks. Here are some do's, don'ts and interesting setups.

Do's
When storing cars for along time, keep the wheels elevated so they don't get flat spots.
Put a stopper on your oil when transporting it to keep it from spilling.
Keep it all organized. Remember the saying "A place for everything and everything in its place."

Don'ts
Don't toss stuff in the top and tell yourself "I'll sort it out later"
Don't bring everything you own. Keep it light, keep it simple.
When setting up at the track, keep your space tidy, compact and well-lit.

HO Scale
Plano
Whodat HO
Racers at the Fray in Ferndale
Scale Engineering
R4R Wood Products

1/24 & 1/32 Scale
Whitey's
Whodat
Slotcarracing.org
NTC

Build your own
http://www.slotside.com/tt/box.html 

Other Pitbox Conversations
Slot Car Illustrated
Slot Car Illustrated 2
2010 USRA Div 1 Pit Spaces
Old Weird Herald
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Lube Up That Hot Rod

2/25/2012

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Now that you're done snickering about the title... Oh? You're not done? I'll wait.


Ok. Got that out of your system? Good. Let's take lube seriously. (heh heh)

What I've learned in my most recent return to slot cars is that there are several ways to lube up that hot rod of yours. These days I'm mostly running T-Jets, but what I'm learning often applies to other classes of HO cars, other scales of slot cars and radio control cars. There seem to be 2 camps of thought; oil the living daylights out of the gears so they have everything they need or oil just enough to provide the bare minimum film of lubrication needed to get you through a heat or two.

What have I taken from the advice I've been offered by both camps? Take them both seriously, but be selective where to apply that advice. In T-Jets, I've learned to oil the top gears liberally, oil everything else very sparsely, spin the tires a few times with my fingers, then put the car on a warm-up box for a minute or two. If I can reach it and have time, I mop up any oil that got spun off of the gears on the top plate with a paper towel. That gives everything a good coat without adding drag.

For magnet cars, I've found that the sparse method works best, no matter what. Again, no matter how much or how little oil you apply, spin everything you've oiled with your fingers first to coat it, then run it on the warm-up box to spin off any excess. That way less will wind up on the track.

Not sure where to oil? I've found a few resources on the Internet, but the common sense should be applied liberally. Gears, axles and bushings all get oiled.

T-Jet/pancake motor car oiling.
Inline motor car oiling.

One last note, don't forget to oil the front wheels. They turn, too, but they require far less lube attention than gears or rear axles.


Got any tips you'd like to share? Please do.
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    Author

    Cory White is a motorsports enthusiast of all scales.

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